- Cover
site with dustsheets inside and out.
- Using
screwdriver/nail bar remove all opening sashes.
- To
remove glass in remaining window fixed lights (wear safety
equipment) carefully crack glass with the aid of a screwdriver/punch
and light hammer. Start at the top corner from inside the
window, remove cracked shards and put them into plastic
bin. Once all glass has been carefully removed you are ready
for the next step.
- Using
a Stanley knife on inside of window, break plaster seal
around periphery of window frame.
- Using
a crosscut saw, cut through the remaining vertical (mullion)
and horizontal (transom) frame members and remove.
- While
minimising damage to plaster, brickwork and damp proof membrane,
cut through the outer frame jambs head and cill of the window
frame.
- Using
the nail bar carefully, it should now be possible to lever
the framework away from the plaster line with minimum disturbance.
- Remove
any projecting cement accumulations with your masonry chisel
and clean away any debris around the opening.
- Fitting
the New Window
- Cill
(where required): Position the cill profile onto the brickworks
o that the up stand is snug against the plaster line of
the jambs (you may need to trim the ‘horns’
to fit around the brickwork).
- Using
the plastic packers, level the cill with approximately 5mm
clearance between it and the brickwork.
- Secure
the cill to the brickwork using the 8 x 100 mm fixing bolts
positioned approximately 150 mm from each end and at 600
mm centres thereafter. Check for level and do not over tighten
the fixing bolts.
- Run
a bead of silicone along the back edge of the cill up stand.
- Using
silicone or superglue, secure the end caps into position.
They may need trimming to size if the cill horns have been
cut around the brickwork.
- Remove
all glazing beads from the window frame, marking them accordingly
to ensure they can be replaced into the original position.
- Put
the new window in position, with the base snug against the
cill up stand keeping a tight seal into the bead of silicone.
Clean off excess silicone. Using a spirit level, ensure
the new window is positioned vertically and where appropriate
hard up against the plaster line.
- Wedge
the window into position using the plastic packers provided.
- Do
not bend the framework by over packing.
- Open
the vents of the window to enable access to the outer frame
jambs. Using #8 x 40 posidrive screws, secure the bottom
of the window to the cill, 150 mm from each internal corner
and 600 mm centres thereafter.
- Secure
the window jambs into the brickwork surround using 8 x 100
mm fixing bolts, again 150 mm from each corner and at +/-
600 mm centres thereafter.
- In
all cases ensure that the screw heads are not standing proud
as this may interfere with the glass positioning.
Note: it is not advisable to attempt bolt fixing in the
head of the window, as this may permanently damage the structural
lintel of your window, the best solution for fixing the
head is to use expanding foam.
- Close
and lock all opening sashes, check that all is square within
the outer frame.
- GLAZING:
Prior to putting the glass sealed units in, position 25
x 100 x 15 glazing bridges into the frame recess. A dab
of silicone will secure the packer in place in preparation
for the next step.
- Position
a 28 x 100 x 5 glazing packer onto the bottom glazing bridges.
In the case of side hung sashes also glue or silicone secure
an additional 28 x 100 x 5 glazing packer onto the glazing
bridge opposite the hinge side.
- FOR
EXTERNALLY GLAZED WINDOWS WITH SECURITY TAPE IN SITU, IT
IS NECESSARY AT THIS STAGE TO REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE STRIP
FROM THE SECURITY TAPE.
- Put
the appropriate glass sealed unit into the aperture, resting
squarely on the glazing packers, ensuring the glass is central
within the opening. Push the glass back into the rebate
as far as it will go without using undue pressure.
- Using
hand pressure only, position additional 2 mm glass packers
to square up where necessary.
- Gently
unlock and open the sashes to check that no binding occurs
within the locking system and no movement occurs between
the glass and frame, minor glass packer adjustments may
be necessary to achieve perfect squareness.
- Clip
back the pre marked glazing beads into the original position
in the following order 1) top 2) Bottom 3) sides.
- Carefully
gun a bead of silicone between the outside masonry and window
frame periphery, wiping off any excess.
- Similarly,
gun a thin bead of acrylic between the inside plaster and
window from the periphery. Allow this to skin over (1 hour).
- Remove
all protective tape from the faces of the window frame,
clean where necessary with warm soapy water.
|
